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| Bryan Miller
Around every corner lurk greasy Fisherman's Platters that give children nightmares, Naugahyde minute steaks that put tofuburgers in a favorable light and all those ubiquitous fast-food indigestion huts. I know a viscous butter sauce when I eat one, and that was one indeed! The disparity between a restaurant's price and food quality rises in direct proportion to the size of the pepper mill. The moist, flavorful meat is concealed under a thick slab of crisp fat that would make a cardiologist blanch. The Polo Lounge is like a fine old mink coat: opulent, dignified and warm. The qualities of an exceptional cook are akin to those of a successful tightrope walker: an abiding passion for the task, courage to go out on a limb and an impeccable sense of balance. The quality of food is in inverse proportion to a dining room's altitude, especially atop bank and hotel buildings (airplanes are an extreme example). |
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